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Often people immediately head to Thayer Street when going to the East Side of Providence. Understandably, this is a happening spot. The hip collar of Brown University, Thayer has a plethora of restaurants, shopping, and…uh, more of both. I have to admit that I ignored most everything else of what the East Side has to offer, because there seems to be so much going on in this one spot. Then I moved to Williams Street, which lies between the two, and realized that I had been an uninspired Rhode Islander.
Thayer’s appeal may lie more in the crowd than in the locations it offers. Kartabar draws a lively group on Thursday through Saturday, and hipsters, artists, hippies, and tourists rove the street tirelessly throughout the summer. Things stay interesting thanks to the playful spirit of the Brown and RISD students, but you are ignoring an equally special part of the East Side if you only go to Nice Slice, La Creperie (both great spots, by the way), or Urban Outfitters (no comment).
Wickenden Street is where the real kings and queens of Providence go. If you want to see more of the artsiest, hippsterest, whispy mustached, jort wearing, tattood, local philosphers then head this way. Rather illusive, they tend to avoid the Thayer Crowds. Wickenden has some great spots of its own, including Sakuri, great sushi in traditional floor seating, Brickway on Wickenden has some super tasty breakfast options, and the shops that adorn the street are more varied and antiquated (thus… original) that the chain spots located by Brown.
Coffee shops on Wickenden are bountiful. Some, I think, are pretty crappy. But I am a huge fan of Coffee Exchange where I can see all the resident characters come for their cuppa’. In this summer the deck hosts several tables that spill onto the sidewalk. Walking up to the top of Wickenden (taking you past tattoo parlors, restaurants and the only (fairly sketchy) bar on the street) will eventually lead you to Fox Point, famous for its Portuguese residents; however it is on Wickenden itself that the anual Portuguese Feast is located, with live music, alcohol, Portuguese foods and lots of Christiano Ronaldo paraphernalia.
I mentioned the “in between” in my blog title, and it is less of a pergatory than one might think. Located on Brooks, the Portuguese and American Friends market deserves its own post, so I’ll sum this place up by saying: it’s a step back in time, the sweet old Portuguese owner has this store stocked with stuff from the fifties that any original, curious, young home-owner would be gleeful to discover. Oh, and the prices are just as old-fashioned as the goods, which range from house cleaners, to dishware, to a wall of Our Lady of Fatima statues.
Further up the road on Brooks is into the wardrobe, a carefully selectly and aptly priced second hand clothing store. With nearby Brown and RISD students you can expect to find designer clothes, though the same folks are your shopping competition.
Even further up on Brooks is Loui’s, another antediluvian local, this one a breakfast joint that hasn’t changed it’s prices since it hung the ancient Coca-Cola sign by it’s window. The food is greasy, but CHEAP, and don’t expect regular old hamburgers and hot dogs because we’re still talking about providence. Shakes and vegan options are available here too.
On Hope Street are a few more joints, including Rue De L’Espoir and Sawaddee, a BYOB Thai option that is extremely well priced. And, of course, don’t forget about Wayland Square witch hosts some excelent dining, organic foods, and shopping venues. Anyway, I hope I’ve made my point, that life goes on beyond the old Thayer stomping ground.
I am getting tired of mentioning a “clam cake” to non-Rhode Islanders and watch them bob their heads in false understanding: “it’s like a crab cake, right?”
Yikes! (I say) No way. Imagine a clam being smashed into a different shape? Icky. They’re already ugly. Clame Cakes are, in fact, a much more appetizing vision of food stuff. They are chopped and rolled in batter, then deep fried so they become a hot, fluffy, chewy ball. Usually served by the half dozen, they’re best eaten with New England Clam Chowder.
You can find this treat at sea-side dives such as Iggy’s or Aunt Carry’s in Narragansett, or at nearby restaurant Charlie O’s Tavern.
121 Washington Street, Providence RI, 401.274.2121
I’ve dined here three times and all I can think is, it’s just so gosh darn pretty! I mean really, I couldn’t get over it. I sat in the bar both twice, and would consistently sneak into the dining room so I could admire the the historic feel. With some investigating I learned that Local 121 is inside the former Dreyfus Hotel (built circa 1890′s), and is under ownership by AS220, a Providence non-profit arts organization.
In keeping with the liberal, sustainable AS220 tradition, you can expect local, organic, seasonal food. Oh, and I should probably add delicious. I ate in the bar both times, and would consistently sneak into the dining room so I could admire the design and decor. Overall, the restaurant is dark, with a lot of wood paneling and plush furniture, perfect for a romantic dinner, or a swanky night cap.
Which brings me to my next point, the bartenders know their stuff, they create their own drinks, using both years of experience and magic wands. So please, don’t come here and order a Jack and Coke, or a Bud. My recommendation is the Lime and Basil Gimlet. I am not a gin fan, but this is possibly one of my all time favorite drinks, and it is sweet, sour, subtle, and has a kick. I know it doesn’t sound possible, but like I said, magic wands.
UPDATE:
The last time I went there was some great music being DJ’d and despite the small dance floor, the place was being shook up by some YP’s with quite the post-work dance moves!
234 Thayer Street, Providence RI, 401.331.6200
Paragon is one of those places that I saw all the time while growing up, but never actually went inside. I always heard it was good, and I finally went this year and everyone was right. It is good!
This is what you’ll get: very attractive servers, very mod/european interior, nice big windows, a yummy menu, and mostly tourists and out-of-towners as your co-patrons.
I think it fits in fairly well with the other places on that side of Thayer St. You have Andreas which is basically the Greek version of Paragon (also quite good) and Kartabar, another European/mod food and drink hub. So, all three of these places sort of blend together for me, but Paragon is worth the visit.
Also, Paragon has two bars, and I think it is great to stop by at night for drinks. One bar tends to be much more crowded than the other, so you can drift in between the two depending on your mood.
Great for a sunny outdoor lunch, a sexy dinner, or a night on the town.
10 Water Street, East Greenwich, RI 02818, 401-884-7700
View from the Upper Deck of the Yacht Club
I love the East Greenwich Yacht Club (EGYC), and when you live in Rhode Island being on the water is not defining enough a characteristic to make a place “good.” The EGYC is a wonderful marina for many reasons. First, despite the connotations the words “Yacht Club” implies, the EGYC is in fact less expensive a place to keep your boat than any of the neighboring marinas. The gas is cheaper, boat slip and mooring space is also, and there is a more communal spirit. Many members enjoy simply resting on the deck of the club, ordering drinks at the bar, or (gasp!) using the communal grills to cook their own food! They even provide the raw meat and fish in case you didn’t plan to bring any, as well as other pre-cooked goodies like clam cakes and chorizo and peppers.
My father is a member and for the past two summers we’ve enjoyed visiting the property where it is secreted in the quaint and historical town of East Greenwich. The Yacht Club has it’s own history, established in 1909 it will be celebrating its 100th anniversary. The boats themselves are as beautiful as the property, the adjacent land is actually part of a wild life preservation.
You cannot typically use the club facilities unless you’re invited by a member, and to join you must be sponsored, referred, oh, and have a boat, so I recommend making some new friends to take advantage of this place; however, for just a quick drink or bite to eat, passing visitors may stop by the club between 4 and 8 on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. Prices may be a bit higher (members pay little more than market value), but I recommend taking advantage of a free launch ride (if there are a few people piling on the boat) to see some lovely views and at least imagine you’re sailing off somewhere wonderful with the rush of salt air on your face.
I’m advocating a book, “Spartina” by John Casey. If you are from Rhode Island, you may have heard of it. It takes place, believe it or not, right in Matunick. There are mentionings of Wakefield, East Greenwich, Providence, and even the more obscure literary whispers of Jerusalem. It kills me, every time I read this book, how sweet this little town looks on paper, and how ugly too.
The main character is a fisherman. I don’t want to go into the details, but the book has the nice raw edge of a man telling a story that he can’t recognise is worth telling; it’s the story of a poor man building his own boat. The book is full of salt and grit and it’s all the more beautiful for it.
At the very least, if you know the term “swamp yankee” then you have to read it. And it won the national book award. I’m reaffirming myself. (It is very, very good).
318 Broadway, Providence RI, 401.861.1770
Julian’s is like a little punk rock motor that keeps my heart beating. I take my visiting friends there and am proud to show them just what Providence is about. For those unaccustomed to the more artistic, wild side of Providence, come to Julian’s; for those who want to go where the locals go, come to Julian’s! The food ranges from burgers to vegan pancakes, and the patrons are wildly varied in age, race, and bodily decor. Prices are reasonable, but not cheap.
My dad works right down the street from this place, and I have been meeting him for lunches here for years. The service is slower than a Kentucky hour, but I think it is fine for anyone looking to have a few drinks and enjoy the day.
This is what I like: the french toast and the omelets are both amazing. The mango lemonade is very refreshing. The other foods on the menu, while super yummy, tend to reflect the atmosphere by being a little over the top. Lots of flavor, my friends. Lots and lots of tattoos and flavor.
My all time favorite thing to order is the stuffie and the dark and stormy. The stuffy, for those of you who don’t know, is a Rhode Island specialty, a quahog that is chopped and put in a bread stuffing with peppers and spices and then baked in the shell it came from. Julian’s makes these fresh and they are the best stuffies I’ve had in the state. They are also very spicy, and are served seasonally.
At the bar they serve a mean dark and stormy (dark rum and ginger beer, do as the fisherman do) and there is a tv in the bathroom that usually plays cartoons…not that you should stay in there too long.
I’ve been unemployed for the past two weeks, and I have spent ten of those fourteen days at Newton’s. I love this sun spot because it has remained a hidden space, not only from tourists but from other locals as well. It’s a place that has been passed on through generations, so I’ll thank my mom for the tip.
The Good: few others visitors, stunning views, no fee, clean, food and drinks allowed (but clean up!)
The Bad: not recommended for swimming, takes some searching for the perfect, smooth lay-space (I bring a yoga mat)
Anyway, as the summer pushes onward and the other state and town beaches fill with Rhode Islanders and non-islanders, I am happy to trade sand for stone and watch the waves from a quieter place.
250 Westminster St, Providence RI, (401) 421- 3300
Tazza is a great nighttime stopping point for those in down town Providence. The atmosphere is sleek and youthful, and I have been there for some very fun, live music that got everyone in the place up and dancing. It’s a good crowd.
This is where I’ll be for the summer, specifically in my home town of Wakefield. I figure I won’t be traveling much in the next couple months; however, it is worth bringing attention to a place that most people don’t want to leave. I’ll spend some time highlighting what I’ve come to love about my home state: Including its food, beaches, culture, and arts. 
I suspect this blog will become a tribute to the places I love now and will come to love later. With a world that is changing for the worst and rarely for the better, I hope this journal becomes conscious of the changes that we, as travelers, adventurers, the curious, the wandering and the wondering, must make in order to travel and live ethically, peacefully and harmoniously with this planet. I find myself constantly planning trips to see places before they become ruined or lost. What drives us to see the foreign things, the far, far aways? What can we do to make the world feel big again, a little less fragile, yet see as much of it as possible?
In the summer months Tazza shows a film on the side of the next door building which is windowless and painted white. You can watch the movie from the outdoor seating (that way you can still booze it up) or hop on over to the empty lot and snuggle up to a friend for a good flick. They show on third Thursdays, which is also Gallery night, and the movies tend to be 70s hits. It’s fun and free.